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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: August 16th, 2023

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  • I won’t speak to how the UK does things, but in the US this would make for an easier criminal charge.

    It can be difficult to prove that someone stole (or is about to steal) a car, or broke in to steal the contents. This is especially true if they weren’t apprehended in or with the vehicle itself. But if they are arrested on suspicion, and one of these devices is found on them, they can very easily be prosecuted for possession of criminal tools. It’s similar to how we normies can’t legally own a lockpicking kit unless we’re locksmiths.





  • I’ve found it to have extremely limited value, but not zero. It’s been useful as a shortcut for things I can already do myself. For instance, I can easily get syntax for a param block, or build a window form. Could I do it myself? Absolutely, and pretty easily. And I can recognize when it’s right vs wrong. But it’s marginally faster to have copilot do it instead of digging up the documentation.

    It’s more like a party trick than a trillion dollar revolution. The $20/month for a full time dev is probably around the break even point for the labor savings. It’s not going to save THAT much time.






  • 2 options- USB-C wired NICs are cheap and readily available, so you could easily use a wired connection.

    But I think what you want to do is setup a WAP. You can do this with (nearly) any standard wireless router that meets your specs.

    First, do not connect this to any part of your network yet. Instead, connect to and access its setup config. I know apps are trendy, but I have no idea if you can do this from there. You can if you use its internal website instead, often 192.168.1.1.

    Once here, you need to do the following:

    1. Give it a new IP in the same subnet as your existing router/network. If your main router is 192.168.1.1 and subnet mask 255.255.255.0, your new WAP can be 192.168.1.2. Make sure that your main DHCP range also does not include this address.

    2. Disable the DHCP server entirely on your WAP. You don’t want them to interfere with each other.

    3. Configure the wireless to have the exact same settings as your main router. Your clients (phones, laptops, etc) will automatically choose the best connection point based on signal and noise.

    4. Once configured, connect it to your existing network using a LOCAL port. Do not use the WAN/Internet port.

    If needed, you can also connect other devices to the other local ports.





  • These are all design constraints that need to be taken into account. Most EVs these days have heating and cooling on the battery pack, for the reasons you mention. Adequate protection for it is also certainly solvable.

    Extended use is a more challenging need. I’ll assume for a moment that the machinery uses as much power as an EV at highway speed, although I’m pulling that assumption out of nowhere. That would mean a comparable battery only lasts ~5 hours, and you need it to last 15+ (with a full charge happening overnight). Farm machinery is already very heavy - would the extra 4,000lbs for a triple-size battery be a solution? What about a battery trailer that is easily swapped? That could also create a different form of vendor lock-in, just like your power tools. I really doubt the same machinery is used all year long. Branded batteries are an effective way to keep customers from jumping ship on their next purchase.

    Does the same machinery have to run all at once, or is this just how things have always been done?

    These ideas obviously have problems, not the least of which is running enough electricity to the farms. But it’s just engineering a design to meet the needs/use cases. I’m sure that John Deere, CAT, etc have all had conversations on the matter. I haven’t seen them announce anything yet, though. That could mean they can’t do it yet, they aren’t ready to announce anything yet, or simply that they don’t feel it to be more profitable.

    Given Deere’s infamous lock-in and the repairs needed for ICE, that doesn’t surprise me.



  • The batteries don’t live in isolation. There are other pieces that are dependent, whether for basic function or for calibration.

    Example: Chevy issued a recall for mislabeling some Bolts as N2.1 vs N2.2. The fix is a sharpie to fix the label, and “reprogramming the Hybrid Powertrain Control Module 2”. I could find no information on either of these chemistries. Dropping in a LiFePO4 would require at least the same, and possibly more.

    Now, if you’re suggesting simply swapping a matching replacement part (obsolete as it might be), then I’m on board with that